Real Milk Paint, Half and Half, Pure Tung Oil and Orange Peel Oil for Wood Finishing, Cutting Boards, Butcher Blocks, Clay, Stone, and Slate, Food Grade, 1 Gallon

... but you must learn ahead of time what is involved to do a large amount of counter. I used this (as per the instructions and video) on their website, to do a large butcher block counter for the kitchen (purchased sanded but unfinished from Lowes). It's a lot of work (actually it's MUCH more time in drying time than actual manual labor which is quite easy to brush it on and wipe up excess), but the results were absolutely gorgeous. It needs to be done in a place like a covered screened ventilated porch, (NOT inside the house) as the citrusy odor is very strong and for many weeks-through multiple coatings/drying in between/buffings/drying in between. I ended up doing many coats eventually and ended up needing to buy more of the half and half. If your counter is large, bite the bullet and get a gallon of it. The edges (depending I guess on the butcher block you buy) can take up more finish than the top. I guess the trick there is to check the outside edges BEFORE you finish them, for any pieces that are much darker than the rest. If they are in a place that you view a lot, and they offend you, get a different counter to refinsh or use less on that piece of edge, or dilute the half and half with much more orange solvent. If it sounds like too much- I understand... but the end result was more than worth it to me (and everyone who has seen it since). The counter has all my heavy appliances on it and so far, nothing has left a mark, spills (which I wipe up quickly) haven't penetrated. I don't cut on it directly, but I do make pasta, baked goods and use my bread oven, stand mixer, food processor on it daily and it's been a joy to use and months later- the finish still looks brand new and lovely. Also, I called the company twice with questions and both times they were friendly and helpful. (The pictures which were taken early on in the coatings don't really do it justice).

Words can't describe how much I am loving using RMP's awesome mixture of tung oil and citrus solvent. I purchased the Half & Half because it seemed very user-friendly, and it is. It is extremely easy to use; no mixing required. I am a total beginner, but even I can't mess this up! After sanding a table down to the raw wood, I've started the process of oiling a cherry wood table. The first day I applied several coats, allowing at least an hour between each. Now I'm applying one coat each day, allowing it to soak in overnight. The table is still soaking it in, and becoming more lustrous and glowy with each day. I hope to build the oil finish to the point where it will withstand water. The oil does a great job of sinking into the wood and bringing out the internal glow of the wood. I thought the grain of the wood looked great after just sanding, but the oil does a lot to bring out the character and highlight the grain. Do note, that if you have any unevenness in the tone of the wood finish (in my case, due to a mix of hand- and power-sanding), the oil will highlight the differences and any flaws; so definitely make sure the table is sanded EVENLY and that all blemishes that might bother you later are sanded out and completely gone before beginning the oil application. I just use a clean microfiber rag for application; that works fine. Make sure you pour the liquid into a separate container, and dip the rag into that, rather than directly from the bottle. This will keep the bottle from taking in any contaminates. I also wiped a very thin coat onto a midcentury modern desk made of teak; it's showing some dryness and fading due to being exposed to sunlight. I applied two thin coats, then allowed to dry, and wiped down after an hour or so both times. It looks much better! It made small scratches disappear and evened out the tone; it definitely rehyrated the dry teak wood. This is an awesome product, and I'm looking forward to using it on everything I own that's made of wood: An IKEA raw wood step-stool, my rolling pin, my wooden drying rack, wooden kitchen utensils... I expect that this will work wonders on all of the above. i love above all that this is food safe and non-toxic. I can use it indoors, with a window open to counter the strong citrusy smell (it smells like OJ); not unpleasant, but strong. So much better than attempting to use some kind of varnish, which might dry quickly, but would stink up my home and leave me with a headache! For me, the slow process is worth it and part of the fun. When I run out, I'll definitely be buying more!

We are in the process of completely remodeling our kitchen and decided on wood butcherblock counter tops. My wife and daughter did alot of research and found this was one of the best finishes we could use. And it is. We are so happy with the finish. throw water on it and it just beads up. Waterproof for sure. Which is very useful in a kitchen counter. i can't say it's a hard finish as I did put a tiny dent in the counter after dropping my tape measure from a distance (don't tell my wife), but it is hard to notice, but this does seem to make the material at least a little more durable. Course even poly is not 100% protective. My wife also liked the fact that is SO much easier to apply then wipe on poly. It's like thick water, so it goes on real nice. She wants to use it on the basement wood ceiling I just put it because it's easier. The only downside we found (though NOT a fault of the product), is that you can not use the surface for at least a week, so you have to be prepared to let it sit. And a full cure is 30 days. Just something to keep in mind. Even still, it's worth the wait, we love it.